Nepal (under construction)
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Days 189 - 235: Nepal
To put it sımply, after visiting 15 countries, Nepal was (and is) our favorite . . . . Ahhh, Nepal. From the moment we crossed the border (following a most infuriating 2-day busride from India, crammed into a seat fit for a small child . . . tricked again by those wily Indians! Damn!), we fell in love with this country: bus-bleary eyes awakened by massive peaks; terraced rice paddies that ascend 1000's of feet from the valley floor; churning, massive rivers aglow with silvery glacial runoff; tiny villages perched way, way up, amongst rocky slopes and distant glaciers. Soon we would be trekking for weeks at a time amongst these glaciers, past these most remote villages, to holy lakes and peaktops.
Nepal has it all: smiling, welcoming people; wonderful food (ok, after weeks on end of dal baht--the Nepali staple of rice, lentils and a curried vegetable--most travelers to Nepal may not agree with us, but we loved it!); Buddhist temples dotting the countryside; ancient, crumbling Newari architecture; and, of course, the gnarliest, most stunning mountains in the world - the mighty Himalayas.
Forget the Alps, Rockies, Sierras, Cascades (big mountains that we know and love); the Himalayas are in a different league. They are just HUGE and jagged and FRESH, as though they just popped out of the Earth's crust. Our first up-close glimpse came while journeying to the village of Seyabrubesi, the jump-off point for our first trek, 7 days into the Langtang Valley, home to 7500 meter peaks, just a few miles from Tibet. A good warm-up before we started on a 18-day trek to Mt. Everest base camp and the holy lakes of Gokyo. Clinging to the roof of a rickety, public bus blaring fast, high-pitched folk music ("shwingy-dingy" music), seated next to farmers and chicken cages, we gawked at the 4,000 feet of AIR (!) beneath our feet (and gawking at the fact that it took us 9 hours to travel just 85 miles!!). This was the absolute scariest road we've ever seen, 10-feet of dirt cut into the mountainsıde, half way up a 8,000 vertical foot valley! The valleys just kept going up and up and up.
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The flight to Lukla was an adventure in its own right. The 12-seater plane flew along side the Himalayas for the entire 45 minute flight. When we reached Lukla, we saw that the landing strip. . . .
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